The next stop on our journey is Colombia’s second-largest city: Medellín. As a result of an urban war set off by the drug cartels led by Pablo Escobar in the 80’s and 90’s, this city was once known as the most dangerous place in the world. That is exactly the image the people of Medellín are trying to change, according to our tour-guide Juan.
During a four-hour walking tour, Juan tells us about the history of the city and explains the Colombian conflict: the war between Colombian governments, right-wing paramilitary groups, left-wing guerrillas and drugs cartels. Recently the Colombians had to make a difficult choice: a peace-agreement between the government and the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC-EP) was drafted to end this conflict. With a referendum the Colombian’s had to vote in favor or against the agreement. For many it was the impossible choice between peace or justice. After 50.2% voted “No”, the agreement was adjusted and sent straight to congress, instead of conducting a second referendum. You can imagine how much that polarizes a country. We notice during the tour that bystanders stop and listen to Juan’s explanations. They want to make sure the provided information to tourists is accurate (according to their beliefs), as visitors will take the newly acquired information back home. Never underestimate the influence of a tour-guide!
Juan also shares his vision on Escobar, who is perceived differently among Colombians. Some see him as a Robin Hood who helped the poor, some idolize his money and big mansions and others see him as a crazy criminal in who’s prime the murder rates were skyrocketing. In 1991 alone, 6,349 people were killed in Medellín. Many of them were police officers, judges and prominent politicians. Juan grew up here. He and his brother were shot, when gang members decided to spray fire on them and their friends, while playing football in the wrong neighborhood. Furthermore, two of his uncles were kidnapped for about a year and held as prisoners in the jungle. Given these experiences and simply looking at the murder rates in Escobar’s era, there is no way that Juan and his family can consider Escobar anything more than a crazy criminal. Anything that suggests otherwise in popular media makes him and many others (who lived here through the 80’s and 90’s) sick in their stomachs.
Times have changed after Escobar was shot, stronger governments took office and the city invested heavily in urban development and safety. As we walk through the city, we pass places once obscure and dark. They were filled with drug dealers, prostitutes and homeless people. They are now completely redesigned with light poles, trees, art and libraries. Furthermore, the first metro system in Colombia was built here and a new cable car system connects the poor and more developed parts of town. In 2013 Medellín was awarded the "Innovative City of the Year" by the Wall Street Journal, beating New York City and Tel Aviv.
The atmosphere is pleasant. There is a lot of green and it is relatively clean, but most importantly: the people are very friendly. I haven’t felt unsafe for one moment. During our tour many people are smiling and waving at us or literately thanking us for being here. Every visitor that comes to this city is confirming that the city’s image is changing.
Juan shares his opinion on ‘Colombian Happiness’. How is it that people that have endured so much can be so cheerful and happy? When a Colombian cyclist won just one stage in the Tour de France, the entire country was out on the streets celebrating, as if he had won the whole thing. Similarly, when the Colombian football team is doing well in the World Cup, the Colombians are celebrating as if they just became world champions. Juan explained that in case of tragic and overwhelming experiences, Colombian’s try to hold on to the little things that bring them joy or pleasure. That’s why the metro system in Medellín is much more than just a means of transportation. It is a symbol of hope for better times.
I find Juan’s stories endlessly fascinating. I hadn’t researched much of Colombia or Medellín before coming here, so I’m learning lots of new things. More importantly: he tells his stories from the heart. Our whole group is engaged and hanging on his lips. He cares. Some of us even get emotional as he ends his tour, with thanking us for being part of Medellín’s narrative. The moment we set foot in this city, we started experiencing a transformed city. As we’ll leave this place, we’ll take stories home with us. The more people have a positive association with Medellín, the more this city can prosper.
The picture Juan is drawing of the city’s current positive and safe atmosphere turns out to be accurate as we spend our days walking through the city, riding the cable car, tasting the Colombian cuisine, playing pool and party during the evening hours.
On our last day a two-hour bus ride takes us to Guatapé, one of Colombia’s most colorful towns. It borders a reservoir created by the Colombian government for a hydro-electric dam, built in the late 60’s. Neighboring town Peñol is home to a rock formation “La Piedra”, which has a staircase built into it. It’s a hot day and we’re lucky that the staircase is covered in shade. After climbing the 265 steps we reach the top at a height of about 200 meters. The panoramic view is spectacular.
Impressed by the interesting story of Medellín and the beauty of the Guatapé area, we pack our bags to head north towards the Caribbean Sea. Next stop: Santa Marta!
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